Banyuwangi isn't just rich in history neatly recorded in colonial documents or royal inscriptions. In many corners of the region, history walks hand in hand with myth and legend passed down through generations — stories that may be difficult to prove scientifically, yet remain preserved because they form an inseparable part of how the community understands the place they call home.
This article covers two of the most well-known sites for their myths and legends: Watu Dodol and Alas Purwo, complete with the various versions of the stories in circulation and the scientific context surrounding them.
Watu Dodol: The Giant Rock That Cannot Be Moved
On Banyuwangi's northern coast, right by the roadside toward Ketapang, stands a massive rock known as Watu Dodol. This rock is far from an ordinary natural formation — it carries several different versions of legend depending on who's telling the story.
The first version links this rock to the story of Ki Buyut Jaksa (or Ki Buyut Jaso), who during the reign of Regent Mas Alit was tasked with splitting this rocky hill to build a road connecting Banyuwangi and Panarukan. The project repeatedly failed and claimed lives, until finally a kind of treaty monument was created to calm public protest — a trace of this event believed to have given rise to the Puter Kayun tradition still practiced by Boyolangu residents today.
The second version carries a more whimsical tone: as the story goes, Kyai Semar, a punakawan figure from Javanese wayang tradition, was carrying jenang (dodol, a sticky candy) across the Bali Strait, but the candy spilled and hardened into stone — from this, the name "Watu Dodol" (dodol stone) is believed to have originated.
Regardless of which version is believed, an interesting fact is that real attempts to move this rock actually took place during the Dutch colonial era — ranging from breaking it apart to pulling it with a ship — yet none succeeded. In fact, the ship used to pull it reportedly split in two. This repeated failure only strengthened residents' belief that the rock is guarded by supernatural forces.
The Scientific Side Behind Watu Dodol
Interestingly, behind all these myths, Watu Dodol also has a geological explanation that has been studied. According to data from Ijen Geopark, this hill is part of a karst formation on the eastern slope of the Ijen Volcanic Complex, composed of reef limestone containing fossils of algae, coral, and foraminifera — evidence that this area was once an ancient sea millions of years ago. The massive rock now standing in the middle of the road is part of this karst formation, which is naturally very difficult to destroy.
Around Watu Dodol, there's also a bunker left over from the Japanese occupation era (1942–1945), once used as a defensive fortress. Local residents believe the tunnels inside this bunker can reach all the way to the Alas Purwo area — a belief directly connecting Banyuwangi's two most famous mystical sites.
Alas Purwo: The "First Beginning" Forest Believed to Be a Mystical Kingdom
The name Alas Purwo means "the forest of the first beginning" in Javanese, referring to the belief that this area is where land first emerged on the island of Java. Now a National Park, Alas Purwo is believed by local residents to be the site of the largest mystical kingdom on Javanese soil, inhabited by jinn, genderuwo spirits, and ancestral guardians maintaining balance between the visible and invisible worlds.
According to research cited from the University of Jember Repository, the myth of a jinn kingdom in Alas Purwo falls under the category of ghost stories, part of the supernatural folklore that develops particularly among the people of Kalipait Village, Tegaldlimo District — a village directly bordering this forest area.
Several points within Alas Purwo are believed to carry their own mystical significance:
- Kawitan Site — believed to be the location of a grand mystical kingdom, often a site for rituals and meditation among spiritual practitioners
- Goa Istana (Palace Cave) — believed to be the palace of this mystical kingdom, even said to be where President Soekarno once meditated to meet Nyi Roro Kidul, the Queen of the Southern Sea in Javanese mythology
- Gunung Tugu (Monument Hill) — home to a monument inscribed with Old Javanese script, believed to be a relic left by Majapahit people who fled to Alas Purwo after the Demak Kingdom's attack
Rituals and Beliefs Still Alive Today
Every 1 Suro night on the Javanese calendar, thousands of pilgrims from various regions come to Alas Purwo to perform tirakat (spiritual vigil) and meditation, bringing offerings and staying in quiet contemplation at Pura Luhur Giri Salaka, a sacred temple located in the heart of this forest area. That night is believed to be the most sacred time for connecting with the unseen world.
One of the most commonly repeated taboos for visitors is the prohibition against looking back if they hear an unfamiliar voice calling their name while inside the forest — believed to be an attempt by spirits to lead astray visitors who fail to maintain proper conduct.
Why These Myths Continue to Be Preserved
Regardless of whether these stories can be scientifically verified, myths and legends like Watu Dodol and Alas Purwo carry a real social function: teaching respect for nature, preserving areas considered sacred, and serving as a reminder that there are boundaries humans should not cross in order to maintain balance with their surrounding environment. As noted by Ijen Geopark observers, various myths and folktales like these may well be an ancestral mandate for the current generation to continue preserving nature.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Watu Dodol?
Watu Dodol is a giant rock located along the coastal road between Banyuwangi and Ketapang. It is famous for the many legends surrounding its origin and for the belief that it cannot be moved.
What are the legends behind Watu Dodol?
The most popular stories involve Ki Buyut Jaksa, who attempted to split the hill to build a road, and Kyai Semar, whose spilled dodol is said to have turned into the giant stone.
Has anyone ever tried to move Watu Dodol?
Yes. During the Dutch colonial period, several attempts were reportedly made to break or pull the rock away, but none were successful, strengthening local beliefs about its supernatural nature.
What is the scientific explanation for Watu Dodol?
Geologists identify Watu Dodol as part of an ancient limestone karst formation belonging to the eastern slope of the Ijen Volcanic Complex, containing marine fossils millions of years old.
What does the name Alas Purwo mean?
Alas Purwo means "the forest of the first beginning," referring to the traditional belief that this was the first land to emerge on the island of Java.
Why is Alas Purwo considered mystical?
Many local traditions believe the forest is home to an unseen kingdom inhabited by spiritual beings and ancestral guardians, making it one of Java's most mystical places.
What is Kawitan Site?
Kawitan Site is believed to be the center of the mythical kingdom within Alas Purwo and is often visited by people seeking spiritual reflection or meditation.
What is Goa Istana known for?
Goa Istana is believed in local folklore to be the palace of the unseen kingdom. Some stories also associate it with President Soekarno's spiritual meditation.
Why do many people visit Alas Purwo on 1 Suro?
The night of 1 Suro is considered spiritually significant, attracting pilgrims who perform meditation and prayers at sacred locations within the national park.
What is the most well-known taboo in Alas Purwo?
Visitors are traditionally advised not to turn around if they hear an unfamiliar voice calling their name while inside the forest.
Is there a connection between Watu Dodol and Alas Purwo?
According to local folklore, tunnels beneath the Japanese bunker near Watu Dodol are believed to extend all the way to Alas Purwo, although this belief has never been scientifically verified.
Why are these myths still important today?
Beyond their supernatural elements, these stories encourage respect for nature, preserve cultural identity, and remind communities to protect places considered sacred.
Watu Dodol and Alas Purwo prove that Banyuwangi is a region rich not only in recorded history, but also in myths and legends that continue living alongside the scientific explanations behind them. Whether one believes them or not, these stories remain part of the cultural identity that keeps the community's respect for its surrounding nature alive. Want to explore another legend closely tied to Banyuwangi's history? Read The Legend of Sritanjung and Sidopekso: The Origin of the Word 'Banyuwangi'